The Holy Land in 48 hours or less: Day1

Sounds crazy, but it can be done. We just did it. If you're insanely ambitious (and you have late spring/summer daylight), you can "see" much of Israel in less than 48 hours. Here's the itinerary:

Day ONE
12:45pm Flight Arrives
Customs wasn't a big deal since El Al Airlines had already grilled my girlfriend from the States for 45 minutes to make sure she wasn't the next Jihad Jane.

2pm Arrive in Jerusalem

Park at Mamilla Mall & bolt for Jaffa Gate. We immediately walked through the Armenian Quarter where unfortunately, their churches rarely let you see anything including "their" Upper Room. In any case, its the path to the rooftops where you have an awe-inspiring view of the entire Old City and can even look down into the bustling shuk selling every chachki/idol known to Christendom.

Walk towards the Jewish Quarter and see ancient City Walls dating back to the time of David which were uncovered only after Israel regained control of the Old City following the Six-Day War. The outer walls you see today are only about 500 years old, built by the Turks.

Walk through the Roman Cardo. The Romans were excellent at infrastructure as a stroll through this once column-lined promenade can attest to.

 

Stuff your face & hydrate. You probably don't remember what meal you should be eating, but nothing beats a good felafel or shwarma for taste or price in the Jewish Quarter.

 

Walk towards the Western Wall Plaza. Also known as the "Wailing Wall," but  referred to here as HaKotel HaKodesh (lit. wall of the Holy). Be prepared to see overheated teenagers bearing serious artillery, ordering you through metal detectors.

4pm Western Wall

Bring a pen and paper. It's time to talk to HaShem (the name), our Creator.  You can talk to Him anywhere, but it has been a long held Jewish tradition to write out prayers to God & place them in any crack or crevice you can find.  Again, He will hear you when you cry out to him anywhere in the world, but the act of doing it here, where God's presence dwelled in the shekhina glory (until the time of the exile), can be an incredibly moving experience.  (I also just learned that the Rabbis permanently archive with great reverence, your written prayers forever.)

Walk towards Dung Gate (named for all the parts not fit for sacrifice) to the Archaeological Park.  The Western Wall is usually much more crowded and this park affords a more authentic tour of the grounds surrounding the Temple Mount.  In addition to a very nice and air conditioned museum, we found a great view of the City of David from the ramparts, and the best part was the stairs and gates into the Temple Courts (below). 

(Yes, this IS exactly where people in Yeshua's time would have entered the temple courts.) Of course the Temple Mount today is not easily accessible unless you're Muslim or IDF, but that's another subject for a later blog.  So much of the Old City has changed, but in the park we saw the other unearthed Roman Cardo (below), where the ancient stalls of money-changers and sellers of sacrificial animals did their business.

You can spend the day there exploring archaeology, including underground (now) Byzantine homes, but we didn't. We were on the move, leaving the park just after closing, and in time to make it for the Garden Of Gethsemane.

6pm  The Kidron Valley & Mt of Olives

Making sure we weren't the only ones making the trek outside the walls of the Old City, we descended into the Kidron Valley en route to the Mt. of Olives.  On the way you pass some ancient tombs.  One is attributed to (and has been injured by years of rock throwing) to Absalom, but is obviously belonging to a wealthy person buried at a much later date, most recognizable due to the Roman columns etched into the design.

The entry to the olive garden, traditionally identified as the Garden of Gethsemene, was already closed. However, baruch haShem, the caretaker opened up especially for us to enter into the place famous for where Yeshua prayed, nearby to his disciples, before being arrested by the High Priest's guard.

It's also a great view of the Eastern Wall of the City (left) where you can still imagine the priest releasing the scapegoat during Yom Kippur (Day of Atonment).  All the sins of the nation would be placed on this animal for the year, just as the sins of the world for all time would soon be placed upon Yeshua, as He died an earthly death for all mankind.

7pm Lions Gate & Via Dolorosa
Walk up the hill to Lion's gate named for the lions affixed beside the gates. (Did I mention hills yet?  I should have as they're everywhere, even in the shuk. Wear good walking shoes.  Hiking shoes are best.) If you look immediately to the left, you'll see the Muslim believers entrance to the Temple Mount.  Then on your right the traditional site where in John 5, Yeshua healed the lame man at the Pool of Bethesda (remains right).  
Bethesda also, claims to be the birthplace of "Mother Mary" as the sweet Philipina nun told me previously.  Of course there are at least two other places claiming this, which is curious to say the least.

Back to the Via Dolorosa.  This street, which actually is a super-imposed winding path through the shuk, had its stations named by the Holy See.  The one station we can verify historically, is The Fortress of Antonia, where Yeshua was flagellated and humiliated by Pilate's soldiers.  The rest of the stations can be very interesting, even if you're not Catholic, but they are not necessarily all biblical, nor can we prove their archaeological veracity.  The Via Dolorosa leads you straight to another curious site: The Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

8pm COHS
So, this church claims to be the site of the Crucifixion, burial preparation, and tomb of Yeshua.  The site itself is also claimed by at least six or seven factions of Christianity who each fight (yup, you can see the fists on YouTube) over their piece of real estate on the grounds & even rooftops of this church which is supposed to point us to The Prince of Peace.  Sorry if it sounds like I don't like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but actually there are some things to take from it.  People all over the world long for a way to connect to a real God and savior.  For many, this place represents a tangible way of obtaining this connection.  

A few months ago I witnessed pilgrims on their knees weeping and rubbing scarfs and such all over the slab traditionally venerated as the preparation table of the messiah.  It touched me as I thought of the woman with the issue of blood.  An outcast, she reached out for his outer garment in faith, hoping the mere grasp would relieve her life-long misery and disgrace.  It brings me near to tears now just writing this.





9pm Pizza at Jacob's on Latin Patriarchate Road
Well, his brother anyway.  This eatery is a clean and affordable pizza joint with authentic Jerusalem walls & ceiling.  The clerk was a friendly English speaking Palestinian teenager (Jacob's bro) who made us feel really welcome.


10pm  Crash the Hotel
No, not like a rock star, like a very tired tourist.  Bring a noise machine and/or ear plugs and eat a lot carbs.  The sunrise lighting up the Tower of David through our window greeted us the next morning at the Gloria Hotel, reminding us that the 6:30am breakfast would be our ticket to seeing the Dead Sea, Galilee, and even passing through Armageddon by the end of the day.


Tune in again for Day 2 of "48 hours or less"


Glossary

shuk/souq: market or bazar
felafel: balls of fried chick-peas usually served in a pita sandwhich
shwarma: juicy turky, beef or other meat prepared on a vertical spit
IDF: Israeli Defense Forces. Military service is cumpulsory like many countries. Though they may appear intimidating with their loaded weapons, they are usually very friendly, helpful and make you feel very safe just knowing they're here.
Baruch HaShem: Bless the Name. Used like "thank God."