Please Watch This Video

I never meant for this to be a political blog. But this video in response to the Flotilla incident is incredibly important for you to view.  In fact, it's NOT political at all.  It's just the facts.

The Holy Land in 48 hours or Less: Day 2

It was only the second day and we were too excited to be tired (or at least my excited ADD self was).  If you haven't read DAY ONE, start there and this will make more sense.

Day 2

6:00am Breakfast
Thankfully, a hearty breakfast is almost always served in Israeli hotels & hostels. By the time we check out & grab the car, it's about 8am. On the way out we got to actually drive through one of the many gates: Zion. It's a tight squeeze but luckily I have a tiny Renault.

8:45am Inn of the Good Samaritan

It was a parable that Jesus told and not an actual historical site, be it is possible that He was referring to the road that many, including himself, would take to get into Jerusalem. The excellent Israel Antiquities Authority have built a beautiful museum loaded with ancient mosaics, pictorial displays from Samaria (a place rarely ventured to), and other assorted artifacts like ossuaries and even a well. They have clean bathrooms and the best part--it's a free stop along the way to the Dead Sea.

9:15 Dead Sea Glance
Unfortunately, that's all we had time for and since I have no A/C, we could ill afford a salt soak in the heat.


10:45 Felafel somewhere
I always remember when I see it, because there's a big golden arches nearby, but I couldn't tell you the town.

12:00 The Ancient Galilee Boat
My husband and I stumbled upon this last year as we were first driving around the Kinneret (how Israeli's refer to the Sea of Galilee). It is a first century fishing boat unearthed in the 80's. It took about 14 years of preservation work to bring it to its current state. But essentially, the boat is very much like what we would expect Jesus and his disciples to have traveled in. It's another fantastic way to really dig deeper in your search to understand what life was like during the first century. It's also a great place to plan for mid-day as the A/C is some of the strongest in the land.

1:15 Cruise the Kinneret
Speaks for itself, but nothing is quite like feeling the wind in your face and remembering where Jesus would have walked on the surface of the waters.

2:30 Capernam/Kfar Nahum/Capharnaum
The most important feature in this town is the ancient synagogue. It was rebuilt in the 4rd century, but it was built in the exact same location as the synagogue where Jesus taught and healed. Again, having good archaeological evidence is incredibly faith building when visiting a place like this.  I had been here many months before I visited Jesus' hometown and it touched me deeply to truly walk in His footsteps at this town on the Sea of Galilee.

3:15 Tabgha
This is the traditional site where Jesus fed the multitudes (the bible isn't clear on the exact location), and where He ate grilled fish on the shore with the disciples after. Again, there is not any archaeological evidence to the traditions. However, the testimonies in the gospels attest to the events taking place in the area of the Sea of Galilee, which is a fairly small region.



Speaking of the region--it's a lush, verdant area of Israel and not what you'd expect after seeing any films based on the bible.

My husband shares with me, that if you were God and you got to pick any area of Israel to live in, this area would be very pleasing with its rich agriculture, green hills (at least in the spring) and its more laid back culture (my assumption, as most beach towns tend towards an ease that only waves can bring), not to mention, fresh fish. Back in February, while touring with my dad and step-mom, the sunrises rivaled those you might see in Hawaii.  After leaving the hustle and bustle of Jerusalem, the beauty of the Kinneret brings a welcome respite.

The churches that I've listed here are worth seeing for a few reasons. St. Peter Primacy Church (it bears a few names) affords one a walk downhill to the water where you can hike up your pants (they don't allow shorts or tanks), cool off, and attempt to take some walking on water pics. The Church of the Multiplication is on the site of a Judeo-Christian church dating back to just around the time of Christ (its the only one I know of so far). Inside, just below the altar is a simple mosaic with a basket of bread flanked by two fish. For me, I prefer its modest imagery telling the miraculous story, especially after Jerusalem, where there's enough religious bling to rival the lights of Vegas.

4:30 Mt of Beatitudes
We have NO idea where Jesus gave the sermon on the mount, and He more likely taught it as a collection of teachings in the open air of the hills of Galilee. But His core teaching has touched the lives of no doubt billions. Its a great place to open up Matthew 5,6 and 7 and enjoy a quiet devotional with an incredible view of the Sea of Galilee. The gardens and paths are beautiful and if you fancy singing a rendition of Agnus Dei, the chapel has incredible acoustics (and is rarely crowded). Also, don't wear tank tops--it's incredibly embarrassing to be scolded by nuns.

5:45 Dinner at Goldstone's
This is actually NOT the name of the restaurant located in Nof Ginosaur, but unfortunately the font on the sign is still unreadable to me in Hebrew. The "Goldstone" sign is legible but it's just the name of an Israeli beer (kind of like the "Coca-Cola" signs in the states).  More importantly, it is a lovely, clean, low-key establishment with a great assortment of salads and kebabs. It's also a great place to decompress from the heat of the day and share impressions on the region where Jesus shared His ministry before going to Jerusalem in his 33rd year.

7:30pm Head to the Jezreel Valley

The sun had yet to go down but it wouldn't hold till Armageddon (right), the biblical Mt of Meggido where some believe the last battle will take place. Unfortunately, it was just a drive by on our part, but we were able to get a good view of Mt Tabor before it got dark. This site is best known for the location where the Judge Deborah with Barak's army defeated the evil oppressor Cisera and his army. Cisera himself falls to the good wife Ya'el and her trusty tent peg (biblical women are not wilting flowers!). Today, this name is very common among young Israeli girls and is a call to strength in this land.

10pm Home to the Sharon Plain (pronounced "share-own")
While not recommended for the faint of heart or easily overheated. This trip can be done in a pinch if you hire a guide or have a good Israeli friend with a flexible schedule in the spring or summer months. That is unless your 48 hours falls on a Sabbath or other holiday of any of the three Abrahamic faiths.

Total Time: 40 hours

The Holy Land in 48 hours or less: Day1

Sounds crazy, but it can be done. We just did it. If you're insanely ambitious (and you have late spring/summer daylight), you can "see" much of Israel in less than 48 hours. Here's the itinerary:

Day ONE
12:45pm Flight Arrives
Customs wasn't a big deal since El Al Airlines had already grilled my girlfriend from the States for 45 minutes to make sure she wasn't the next Jihad Jane.

2pm Arrive in Jerusalem

Park at Mamilla Mall & bolt for Jaffa Gate. We immediately walked through the Armenian Quarter where unfortunately, their churches rarely let you see anything including "their" Upper Room. In any case, its the path to the rooftops where you have an awe-inspiring view of the entire Old City and can even look down into the bustling shuk selling every chachki/idol known to Christendom.

Walk towards the Jewish Quarter and see ancient City Walls dating back to the time of David which were uncovered only after Israel regained control of the Old City following the Six-Day War. The outer walls you see today are only about 500 years old, built by the Turks.

Walk through the Roman Cardo. The Romans were excellent at infrastructure as a stroll through this once column-lined promenade can attest to.

 

Stuff your face & hydrate. You probably don't remember what meal you should be eating, but nothing beats a good felafel or shwarma for taste or price in the Jewish Quarter.

 

Walk towards the Western Wall Plaza. Also known as the "Wailing Wall," but  referred to here as HaKotel HaKodesh (lit. wall of the Holy). Be prepared to see overheated teenagers bearing serious artillery, ordering you through metal detectors.

4pm Western Wall

Bring a pen and paper. It's time to talk to HaShem (the name), our Creator.  You can talk to Him anywhere, but it has been a long held Jewish tradition to write out prayers to God & place them in any crack or crevice you can find.  Again, He will hear you when you cry out to him anywhere in the world, but the act of doing it here, where God's presence dwelled in the shekhina glory (until the time of the exile), can be an incredibly moving experience.  (I also just learned that the Rabbis permanently archive with great reverence, your written prayers forever.)

Walk towards Dung Gate (named for all the parts not fit for sacrifice) to the Archaeological Park.  The Western Wall is usually much more crowded and this park affords a more authentic tour of the grounds surrounding the Temple Mount.  In addition to a very nice and air conditioned museum, we found a great view of the City of David from the ramparts, and the best part was the stairs and gates into the Temple Courts (below). 

(Yes, this IS exactly where people in Yeshua's time would have entered the temple courts.) Of course the Temple Mount today is not easily accessible unless you're Muslim or IDF, but that's another subject for a later blog.  So much of the Old City has changed, but in the park we saw the other unearthed Roman Cardo (below), where the ancient stalls of money-changers and sellers of sacrificial animals did their business.

You can spend the day there exploring archaeology, including underground (now) Byzantine homes, but we didn't. We were on the move, leaving the park just after closing, and in time to make it for the Garden Of Gethsemane.

6pm  The Kidron Valley & Mt of Olives

Making sure we weren't the only ones making the trek outside the walls of the Old City, we descended into the Kidron Valley en route to the Mt. of Olives.  On the way you pass some ancient tombs.  One is attributed to (and has been injured by years of rock throwing) to Absalom, but is obviously belonging to a wealthy person buried at a much later date, most recognizable due to the Roman columns etched into the design.

The entry to the olive garden, traditionally identified as the Garden of Gethsemene, was already closed. However, baruch haShem, the caretaker opened up especially for us to enter into the place famous for where Yeshua prayed, nearby to his disciples, before being arrested by the High Priest's guard.

It's also a great view of the Eastern Wall of the City (left) where you can still imagine the priest releasing the scapegoat during Yom Kippur (Day of Atonment).  All the sins of the nation would be placed on this animal for the year, just as the sins of the world for all time would soon be placed upon Yeshua, as He died an earthly death for all mankind.

7pm Lions Gate & Via Dolorosa
Walk up the hill to Lion's gate named for the lions affixed beside the gates. (Did I mention hills yet?  I should have as they're everywhere, even in the shuk. Wear good walking shoes.  Hiking shoes are best.) If you look immediately to the left, you'll see the Muslim believers entrance to the Temple Mount.  Then on your right the traditional site where in John 5, Yeshua healed the lame man at the Pool of Bethesda (remains right).  
Bethesda also, claims to be the birthplace of "Mother Mary" as the sweet Philipina nun told me previously.  Of course there are at least two other places claiming this, which is curious to say the least.

Back to the Via Dolorosa.  This street, which actually is a super-imposed winding path through the shuk, had its stations named by the Holy See.  The one station we can verify historically, is The Fortress of Antonia, where Yeshua was flagellated and humiliated by Pilate's soldiers.  The rest of the stations can be very interesting, even if you're not Catholic, but they are not necessarily all biblical, nor can we prove their archaeological veracity.  The Via Dolorosa leads you straight to another curious site: The Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

8pm COHS
So, this church claims to be the site of the Crucifixion, burial preparation, and tomb of Yeshua.  The site itself is also claimed by at least six or seven factions of Christianity who each fight (yup, you can see the fists on YouTube) over their piece of real estate on the grounds & even rooftops of this church which is supposed to point us to The Prince of Peace.  Sorry if it sounds like I don't like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but actually there are some things to take from it.  People all over the world long for a way to connect to a real God and savior.  For many, this place represents a tangible way of obtaining this connection.  

A few months ago I witnessed pilgrims on their knees weeping and rubbing scarfs and such all over the slab traditionally venerated as the preparation table of the messiah.  It touched me as I thought of the woman with the issue of blood.  An outcast, she reached out for his outer garment in faith, hoping the mere grasp would relieve her life-long misery and disgrace.  It brings me near to tears now just writing this.





9pm Pizza at Jacob's on Latin Patriarchate Road
Well, his brother anyway.  This eatery is a clean and affordable pizza joint with authentic Jerusalem walls & ceiling.  The clerk was a friendly English speaking Palestinian teenager (Jacob's bro) who made us feel really welcome.


10pm  Crash the Hotel
No, not like a rock star, like a very tired tourist.  Bring a noise machine and/or ear plugs and eat a lot carbs.  The sunrise lighting up the Tower of David through our window greeted us the next morning at the Gloria Hotel, reminding us that the 6:30am breakfast would be our ticket to seeing the Dead Sea, Galilee, and even passing through Armageddon by the end of the day.


Tune in again for Day 2 of "48 hours or less"


Glossary

shuk/souq: market or bazar
felafel: balls of fried chick-peas usually served in a pita sandwhich
shwarma: juicy turky, beef or other meat prepared on a vertical spit
IDF: Israeli Defense Forces. Military service is cumpulsory like many countries. Though they may appear intimidating with their loaded weapons, they are usually very friendly, helpful and make you feel very safe just knowing they're here.
Baruch HaShem: Bless the Name. Used like "thank God."